OK watch as I adapt a set of ebay find Hoyt G3 limbs. These are 50# short limbs. First things first. Here is a pic of the ILF fitting. This needs to be removed first.
Scooter
From the top
You need to remove the top screw. This might be hex, standard or phillips depending on the maker of the limb. Once you remove the screw CAREFULLY tip the contents of the ILF (spring and pin) into your hand. Put these along with the screw and soon to be pressed out bushing in a small baggie for safe keeping. You'll need them if you ever wish to go back.
You need to remove the top screw. This might be hex, standard or phillips depending on the maker of the limb. Once you remove the screw CAREFULLY tip the contents of the ILF (spring and pin) into your hand. Put these along with the screw and soon to be pressed out bushing in a small baggie for safe keeping. You'll need them if you ever wish to go back.
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You will need to press NOT POUND the bushing out of the limb. A socket a dowel or bolt as I used and a vise work fine. Take your time you don't want to damage the limb. You press the bushing from the top side of the limb out.
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Bushings
You'll need to make some bushings if your not using doner pieces from the stock limbs. Brass bushings from a hardware store work great. You need a pair that are 3/8" O.D. and 1/4" I.D. I cut mine down to about a 1/4" long you'll see why later. You could leave them longer but there is no contact with the GM pin so why bother. You'll need to ream them out slightly as the GM pin is slightly larger than 0.250 or 1/4". A G drill bit works fine.
You'll need to make some bushings if your not using doner pieces from the stock limbs. Brass bushings from a hardware store work great. You need a pair that are 3/8" O.D. and 1/4" I.D. I cut mine down to about a 1/4" long you'll see why later. You could leave them longer but there is no contact with the GM pin so why bother. You'll need to ream them out slightly as the GM pin is slightly larger than 0.250 or 1/4". A G drill bit works fine.
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Next press the bushings into the limbs from bottom side untill flush with the limb pad. Take care not to damage the limb. Note the wood and towel used on the vise.
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Once the bushing is in you are almost done. You will notice a large hole now on the top side. I pluged these with some 3/8" plastic plugs found at the hardware store. This is why I left the bushing short. I cut the caps off so they were short enough to fit in. I did not think about it till after that a set of 1?4" I.D. bushings could work with the bushings left longer. Oh well looks factory regardless.
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You will notice a large hole now on the top side. I pluged these with some 3/8" plastic plugs found at the hardware store. This is why I left the bushing short. I cut the caps off so they were short enough to fit in. I did not think about it till after that a set of 1?4" I.D. bushings could work with the bushings left longer. Oh well looks factory regardless.
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I highly recommend making an isolator pad out of an old iner tube or such. This conection is one of the major sources of noise on the GM. Simply trace the limb but and cut out a slot for the bolt and the pin.
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Finished
OK now connect the limb, tighten down (not to tight) and restring the bow. If you went with medium or long limbs you will need a new string. I highly recommend the mountain muffler string (shameless plug goes here). You now have a great bow with the hottest limbs on the planet. I take no responsibility for making your GM the smokenest bow on the block.
OK now connect the limb, tighten down (not to tight) and restring the bow. If you went with medium or long limbs you will need a new string. I highly recommend the mountain muffler string (shameless plug goes here). You now have a great bow with the hottest limbs on the planet. I take no responsibility for making your GM the smokenest bow on the block.
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Tips and tidbits
It is a good idea to take some clear nail polish of the like and apply it to the hole where the ILF was after installing the bushing. This will protect the limb from any moisture intrusion if the finish was chipped. Again I recommend some kind of limb isolator. I really wish Hoyt would include these stock (as well as a better string). Have fun and enjoy. Once I get a chance to visit the shop I'll post some info such as speed, poundage etc.
It is a good idea to take some clear nail polish of the like and apply it to the hole where the ILF was after installing the bushing. This will protect the limb from any moisture intrusion if the finish was chipped. Again I recommend some kind of limb isolator. I really wish Hoyt would include these stock (as well as a better string). Have fun and enjoy. Once I get a chance to visit the shop I'll post some info such as speed, poundage etc.
I'd love to see a comparison between the stock limbs and the fita limbs. Be interesting to see what kind of performance boost is actually gained.
By all means anyone who has done one of these and did it differently please post pics of your work. I might like your idea better! Seriously it seems like every month or so someone posts wanting to know whats involved with this swap so I thought I'd post a "how to". This is by no means the definitive way to do it. So add in your pics and comments please.
Looks great. I'm starting to work on one of these myself. Two questions: From the look of things, there is no flange, glue, or eposy and it appears the only thing holding the bushings in is the tightness of fit, correct? Is that comparable to the system used on the factory bushings and any worries about vibration popping them out?
Thanks
Thanks
This is one of those threads that needs to be saved in a prominent place, as it will surely come up again.
Good thread, good post, good form there Scooter.
Cato
Good thread, good post, good form there Scooter.
Cato
Skybowman,
I believe the factory GM bushing might have knurls on them like the ILF fitting does. Not sure if Hoyt sells that setup as a kit but it might be good to know. I don't think the bushings would vibrate out but a dab of low strength loctite might be good insurance.
I believe the factory GM bushing might have knurls on them like the ILF fitting does. Not sure if Hoyt sells that setup as a kit but it might be good to know. I don't think the bushings would vibrate out but a dab of low strength loctite might be good insurance.
5 minute epoxy
My bushings that I make are snug but not extremely tight they go in with your hand. I use 5 minute epoxy as I have used this in the past many times strong enough to hold it there but can be removed easily. I make my bushings out of a old cable guard from a compound. Scooters should be easier to locate but I sure like the high end finish on that polished aluminum and it not being hollow on top.
Scooter you did a good thing with this thread. I like the cap on top of the brass that was a neat idea.
....................................................Roby.............................................
My bushings that I make are snug but not extremely tight they go in with your hand. I use 5 minute epoxy as I have used this in the past many times strong enough to hold it there but can be removed easily. I make my bushings out of a old cable guard from a compound. Scooters should be easier to locate but I sure like the high end finish on that polished aluminum and it not being hollow on top.
Scooter you did a good thing with this thread. I like the cap on top of the brass that was a neat idea.
....................................................Roby.............................................
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