Bareboat draw weights?

[2Ten]

Just out of curiosity, what draw weights are people shooting with barebow for 3D and targets?

[KirkMcquest]

The oars are pretty heavy on my bareboat but not sure of the weight.

45# on my barebow.

[anthrope]

Originally Posted by KirkMcquest

The oars are pretty heavy on my bareboat but not sure of the weight.

45# on my barebow.

Based on what I have seen, most competitive barebow shooters usually stay <40 lbs. You don't need heavy limbs when you can tune the arrow weight to get the extra reach for NFAA/FITA shooting distances. Even more so for indoors.

I stay between 35# and 40#.

[rsarns]

For NFAA Field I shoot 45#, for ASA I shoot 40#, for indoor I use the same setup (40) with a bit heavier arrow for point on closer to 20. My field arrow is an ACE 470 spine with 120 up front, iirc it’s a total weight of 315.

[Numunuu]

For 3D I shoot right at 40lbs

Indoor I shoot around 34lbs

I never shot field competition.

[Hank D Thoreau]

For barebow target (FITA round, 90, 70, 50, 30 meters) I hold 40.5 HEX6 limbs and up to about 46.5 pounds with slower limbs. I shoot pick-a-point.

For FITA field (up to 50 meters) I hold 32.5 pounds and stringwalk. The lighter weight makes the shorter shots easier by reducing string crawls. I am trying to make this work for NFAA but the longer shots are a stretch.

I use my field bow for 3D and stringwalk. Again, the lighter weight helps reduce string crawls. I am not sure it is the best strategy for unmarked 3D. I am not particularly good at unmarked since, being a target shooter, distance estimation is not a competency of mine. Also, California 3D's, even unmarked, are more like target shoots with shots out to 70 yards (and those are not novelty shots).

[lumis17]

I'm shooting around 34# right now with my target setup. If I was able to shoot more often I would shoot around 40# since, for me, that's the ideal balance between getting a good release and being able to hold on target as long as needed. I shoot my 50# hunting bows the majority of the time and dropping down to 34# let's me hold long enough for my brain to adjust to aiming a bow I don't shoot as often.

[Coodster]

Indoor I shoot 36-38 # otf
Field 41-42 otf
3D is my hunting bow 50-53# otf

Chad

[Grantmac]

~36# for outdoor and sometimes a bit less indoor.

[Jon Lewis]

For 3D, Target and Field I shoot 40# for indoor 38#


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[MartyA]

When I shot 3D and backyard target I used both 36# (~43# otf) and 40# (~47# otf).

Hunting bow was 50# (~57# otf)

[2Ten]

I shoot mainly 3D at 30 yds and under. When I went to 38# from 45#, I really improved. I do notice that on the rare occasions I shoot out to 80 yds, my arrow from 38# limbs seem to lose some gumption trying to get out there.

[Hank D Thoreau]

Originally Posted by 2Ten

I do notice that on the rare occasions I shoot out to 80 yds, my arrow from 38# limbs seem to lose some gumption trying to get out there.

That's the problem I am having shooting my FITA field bow out to NFAA field distances. My bow is ideal for FITA field distances, out to 50 meters. This is what I set it up for. I have good sight points throughout the range and it does well on the short shots. Normally, I have a 10 yard span across a target. Bottom to center is 5 yards; center to top is 5 yards. When shooting long I seem to only be getting about a 5 yard span top to bottom. It is from the arrow losing too much speed from drag and dropping faster. I probably need to ditch the feathers and go back to spin wings.

[j.conner]

Or maybe try low profile vanes, Hank. Feathers have alot of drag and are probably slowing the arrow down more at long distance than the slight additional weight would.

I shoot 40# for indoor and outdoor, but also have a set of 36# limbs.

[barking mad]

36# for indoor and NFAA field, 42 for 3D. Although I don't get to shoot field that often any more.

The main 3D circuit here is run by the National Bowhunters' Federation and by rules you have to use the minimum legal hunting weight which is "over 180 N" or just about 41#...