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  #1  
Old 05-16-2017, 07:45 PM
Whip Whip is offline
 
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Default Feathers cutting hand

Lowered my nock point to 5/16 and my 2 1/4 inch feathers are cutting my knuckle. Will longer feathers not cut my knuckle? Because the quill will be farther forward on the shaft.
Thanks in advance
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  #2  
Old 05-16-2017, 08:03 PM
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Default Re: Feathers cutting hand

Longer could help. If you are a RH shooter, using left wing feathers will put the quill on top and will be less likely to cut your finger. Opposite if you shoot LH. Also placing a drop of glue on the leading point of the quill will help reduce cutting. You may already be doing these things, but need to start somewhere.
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Old 05-16-2017, 08:07 PM
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Default Re: Feathers cutting hand

Have to lower the nock point for tune?.
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Old 05-16-2017, 08:09 PM
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Default Re: Feathers cutting hand

If you haven't already, just turn the nock slightly. Usually we shoot with the cock feather at 9 o'clock... just move it to 9:30 or 10 and see if that resolves your problem. It happened to me on my Martin Hunter with 5" feathers.

We'll also have to assume you are using the right arrow spine for starters!
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Old 05-16-2017, 08:13 PM
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Yes for better tune. I took off the bottom brass nock because I could not get rid of a tail low bare shaft. I had to drop my nock to 5/16. I would like to go lower but it thrashes my knuckle every time. I am shooting lw feathers. I also have a high Jager on the way I am currently shooting a low Jager.
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  #6  
Old 05-17-2017, 05:46 AM
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Default Re: Feathers cutting hand

If you were getting a tail low bare shaft, why would you remove the lower nocking point? That's one of the purposes of the second, lower nocking point, to eliminate any chance the nock slides down the string giving you unfixable low nock flight or contact.

I can see lowering the top nocking point and the lower nocking point the same amount to see if you could tune out the low nock issue.

I'd reinstall the lower nocking point and check your tune. If you still have feather contact with your hand you can try turning the shaft like Daniel suggests.

You could also settle for a slightly higher nocking point than you need for an absolutely perfect tune, just to save your hand from feather cuts. If the shelf of your bow sits low in your hand it's not uncommon to get contact on the top of your bow hand with a tune that produces and otherwise perfect tune. In my opinion bare shafts grouping a few inches lower than fletched at 25-30 yards is not necessarily a bad thing, as long as your broadheads and field points still group together (if you are a hunter).
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  #7  
Old 05-17-2017, 07:53 AM
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Default Re: Feathers cutting hand

Quote:
Originally Posted by Easykeeper View Post
If you were getting a tail low bare shaft, why would you remove the lower nocking point? That's one of the purposes of the second, lower nocking point, to eliminate any chance the nock slides down the string giving you unfixable low nock flight or contact.

I can see lowering the top nocking point and the lower nocking point the same amount to see if you could tune out the low nock issue.

I'd reinstall the lower nocking point and check your tune. If you still have feather contact with your hand you can try turning the shaft like Daniel suggests.

You could also settle for a slightly higher nocking point than you need for an absolutely perfect tune, just to save your hand from feather cuts. If the shelf of your bow sits low in your hand it's not uncommon to get contact on the top of your bow hand with a tune that produces and otherwise perfect tune. In my opinion bare shafts grouping a few inches lower than fletched at 25-30 yards is not necessarily a bad thing, as long as your broadheads and field points still group together (if you are a hunter).

This x2 and consider building up the shelf a bit or using a stick-on rest.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:30 AM
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Default Re: Feathers cutting hand

I like to use 30 grit sand paper on a sanding block and hold the feather in my fletching clamp, then sand off all but the minimum amount of quill before fletching. really the amount of quill on a feather is very excessive.
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  #9  
Old 05-17-2017, 07:43 PM
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Default

I know it doesn't make any sense. Why would the bottom nocking point produce a tail low arrow. I have taken it off and on a few different times and it just does. As soon as I take it off I get a tail high arrow. I have lowered my nock down to 1/4 and it cuts my hand. I have never had such high and lows with a bow. Sometimes I can do no wrong and I will go a week straight where Everytime I string it up it is a different issue. Makes me wonder if something is wrong. I need to put it down for a few weeks and go back to my wood bow. I am on the verge of quitting traditional archery. Never been more frustrated.
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Old 05-17-2017, 08:26 PM
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Default Re: Feathers cutting hand

How 'bout some thick 2P 10 to the front of the feather...then spray it with a little accelerant. Sand a little if necessary

Tom
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Old 05-18-2017, 12:26 AM
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Default Re: Feathers cutting hand

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whip View Post
Lowered my nock point to 5/16 and my 2 1/4 inch feathers are cutting my knuckle. Will longer feathers not cut my knuckle? Because the quill will be farther forward on the shaft.
Thanks in advance
First off, nothing here intended to offend you.

Nomenclature?? 5/16"... does this mean 5/16" above square with your shelf/ rest?
The average shaft is 5/16" dia. and the only bows I know of that shoot well square to the rest have wheels and "D" loops.
5/16" plus the diameter of your shaft above square should get you in the "normal" ballpark.

You don't say what kind of rest/ bow you are shooting but I can pretty much guarantee that changing fletching length won't solve the problem because the root of the problem is that you're putting your knuckles where they don't belong.

If you're shooting a longbow make some type of locater to help you set your hand lower or make one of those leather knuckle protectors.

If you're shooting off the shelf make a raised bump to rest the shaft on and or make what ever changes to the grip necessary to get your hand down enough for feather clearance.

Couple more things, If you set the bottom metal nock point to close to the nock, it will pinch the nock when you draw the bow, forcing the shaft down into the rest, causing the shaft to bend (I've seen 1/2" bends) and any chance of getting a tune to approach zero. This may be why things improve when you remove the bottom nock.

Learn to tie on nock points. they work better, save wear and tear on your nocks, fingers and tabs. You don't have to carry the nock sets and pliers around and besides all the cool kids do it.

Unless you are shooting into brand new foam at shoulder height from a couple of yards, the back end of your bare shaft doesn't tell you much.

What matters is where the bare shaft "impacts" in relation to your fletched shafts.
You shoot with the arrow level (shoulder height not down at the ground).
Tape a -l- on your target, start close, like 2 yards and move back in 5-10 yard increments.
Shoot a couple bare shafts and a couple fletched at the -- line.
You move the nock point toward the bare shaft.
Adjust vertical first, you want the bare shafts to impact just below the fletched.
Then adjust for left/right, with in your ability they should make a straight line.

Redo any shot that you know you screwed up and disregard the back end of the shafts because the shafts will be following the path of least resistance as they penetrate and cross previously made arrow holes.
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  #12  
Old 05-18-2017, 05:22 AM
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Default Re: Feathers cutting hand

Quote:
Originally Posted by bleslie View Post

You don't say what kind of rest/ bow you are shooting but I can pretty much guarantee that changing fletching length won't solve the problem because the root of the problem is that you're putting your knuckles where they don't belong.
Pretty much what he sed.

However a poor state of tune will lead to having the nock end of the arrow crash into the riser. And if you're shooting such that the arrow is very close to the top of your bow hand, the arrow is crashing into your hand as well.

The thing is though, it's not just nock height that can be off and cause this. A dynamic spine issue can also cause this problem. When spine is wrong, the amplitude, frequency, and timing of the oscillations established in the arrow are all whacked and thus we have the fletching running into everything that even comes near to them.

With proper tune, both spine and nock height, it is possible to even shoot arrows off the hand,such as with a self bow, no shelf or rest, and not get cut by the fletching. no glove or knuckle protector or anything like that required.
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  #13  
Old 05-18-2017, 11:30 AM
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Thanks for all the input. 5/16 is how far above zero the top of my arrow nock is I will raise it up. I will leave a little more room in between the nock. And that tail low always impacts high. That is what I was getting at. When I shoot a wide bh it really gets drastic. I have built up a bump and that helps. I think maybe my nocks are to close together. How far apart should they be. I shoot a 5/16 arrow. Thanks for all the help.
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Old 05-18-2017, 12:50 PM
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Default Re: Feathers cutting hand

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whip View Post
I know it doesn't make any sense. Why would the bottom nocking point produce a tail low arrow. I have taken it off and on a few different times and it just does. As soon as I take it off I get a tail high arrow. I have lowered my nock down to 1/4 and it cuts my hand. I have never had such high and lows with a bow. Sometimes I can do no wrong and I will go a week straight where Everytime I string it up it is a different issue. Makes me wonder if something is wrong. I need to put it down for a few weeks and go back to my wood bow. I am on the verge of quitting traditional archery. Never been more frustrated.
It's not the lower nocking point that causes the arrow to leave the bow nock low, it's the lack of a lower nocking point. See if this video works...

https://plus.google.com/photos/11645...818?banner=pwa

Without a lower nocking point you can get the nock sliding down the string, and if it slides down far enough it makes contact with the shelf or your hand and can actually bounce up and make it look like the arrow is leaving nock high (opposite of reality).

I don't know if you are shooting split finger or three under, but if the bottom of your upper nocking point is at 5/16" above a line perpendicular to the string a flush with the shelf or rest it's almost certainly too low. A common measure for split finger shooters is around 1/2"-5/8" and a little higher for three under, both measured relative the a line perpendicular to the string and flush with the contact point on the shelf.

For tuning purposes it's sometimes helpful to start with a very high nocking point (and use one over and one under). Then work your way down until you get your bare shafts and fletched grouping together from at least 20 yards, 25-30 is even better. I'm of the opinion that bare shaft impacting slightly lower than fletched is not necessarily a bad idea, especially if you are having trouble with contact.
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  #15  
Old 05-18-2017, 01:59 PM
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Ok thanks for the input. I understand the Lower nocking point keeps the arrow from sliding down during the release but for whatever reason no matter where the arrow is nocked from 7/8 to 5/6 the dang thing comes out tail low. When I take it off it goes away. Maybe I have it to tight. It doesn't seem to tight there is probably an 1/8 of gap in between the arrow nock and the bottom nock. I am so frustrated with it I just need to put it down or sell it. Just stick to my wood bows. The thing is it hasn't always been this way. It just kind of snuck in. I shoot 3 under on 19" Morrison Phoenix with xl longbow das foam core limbs with a plunger off the shelf. My arrows are beman classic hunter 340 with 250 up front and I pull 32" and shoot a bw tab.
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