Here is my problem; I can't get my arrows to the right. There is 40# behind the arrow (70"bow, spiga 650, brace hight 23,5 cm, zerro tiller and beiter nocking point at 6mm, button is on the weak side, arrow is lined out left from the string) and I want to try first indoor at 18 and 25 m. I tried 2114, 2014 and 1916 (all alu's). at 25 m they all grouped together (the 1916 is the most to the right but this is a few centimetres) I am aiming point at the gold and all arrows end in the left bleu rings. When I am going to a weaker spine the arrowflight is not good. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
I might forgot this; I am a string walker, long finger in corner of my mouth, string always on the same place. Is centershot what i call the tip of my arrow on the left sight of the string?
Have you tried different point weights? 2114's are .510 spine, 2014's are .579 and 1916's are .623.
Also you didn't mention your draw length, arrow length or point weight. There are a lot of variables here. Somebody will probably slap me silly, but I'd suggest a heavier head on the 1916 for starters.
Sebastiaan, I stringwalk too. I'm currently tuning (and retuning........and retuning...) a 40# field set up. I'm tuning at 25m and for me that's a 27mm crawl. I'm using a 28" BOP Carbon One 0.600 spined arrow with a 80 grain point. My DL is 29.75" so the arrow is a little on short side.
At a later stage I will tune C-1 550's. I anticipate they may tune with a 90 grain head at about 28.5" (remains to be seen). I can unhappily report that 30.5" 0.525 spine arrows with either 70 or 90 grain points will not tune, too stiff.
Check you're not torquing the bow to the left though........been there, done that!
Hm.... I think I am on the right track. My 1916 is 28, 5 " with a 80 gr. bullet point is a little bit short for me too. I think I go for 29"-30" and I am using a Beiter plunger, I can use the soft spring instead of the mid version and I can try a 100 gr. point. Keep you posted.
I had the same problem with my two bows. My arrows were going to the left showing stiff. Instead of adding more point weight to make them weaker, since I want to use a 75 grain point weight, I raised the brace height in 1/4" increments and my arrows started going to the right.
Even though I have two bows, they're not the same poundage. I shoot the same 2212 arrow out of both bows, but if you look at my signature, you'll see the brace heights are different for each bow.
I fine tuned my 42# bow this morning. I practiced at 20 yards since I'm a bowhunter. Instead of 7 15/16", I'm now at a 7 13/16" brace height. Did a little experimenting too with my fingers. I shoot split finger. I normally have one over, two under and I draw my bows with these three fingers. On a whim, still using split, I decided to go one over, three under and draw using these four fingers. This is what caused my brace height to increase on my 42# bow.
I like the way it felt and where the arrows hit on my bag target. I was scaring the bejabbers out of a pine cone at 20 yards.
I did the same thing with my 37# bow, but the brace height stayed the same, 8 3/8".
If you shoot with both eyes open and your draw arm is not on the same side as our dominant eye, then it can cause left hits for a right handed archer. I'm right handed-right eye dominant but hit left if I use the arrow for an aim point but pay undue attention to the arrow image to the right (focusing on the target causes the arrow to be doubled).
So, today i did a little tuning on my "backyard range". I can shoot at aprox. 16 yards. I bought a 1916, made it 30" instead of 28,5" what I was using. The point weight of both arrows is 80 gr. The 30 incher is hitting slightly to the right but not enough. The next step I made was to change my brace-height from 23,5 cm to 22,5 cm indeed the arrows comming to the right. But a second problem occurred..... On the bottom of the riser-window there was a black stripe comming up???????? So I tried the old lip-stick methode and yes, one vane was hitting the riser. So I think I have a nock-point height (is now aprox. 1 cm.) problem to. The next problem (how many problems will come???) is that I am addicted to Beiter nocks and nock-points, they are not easy to change. So at first I will try a vane that is not as high as I am using now and I will change point weight to 100 gr. Keep You posted.
You're a right handed archer. You think the 1916's are a little stiff, and therefore hitting left. So you increased the arrow shaft to 30" and now they are a little weaker/softer and hitting 'less left'.
Your on the right track. Next you can make the arrows weaker still with heavier points, or make the bow more powerful, which you've done by reducing the brace height and therefore the pre load.
Since your points are relatively light, I'd be inclined to keep the brace height and nocking point that was working for you and just try heavier points. Assuming they are just screw ins, this will be the cheapest, easiest and least aggravating.
I'm no expert, and having bare shaft tuning issues of my own, so I look forward to your update.
Edit: I may have the advice about brace height wrong. Looking at Stu Millers Calculator instructions, he says if the arrow is weak, decrease the brace height and Vs Versa. This doesn't make sense to me, as by preloading, you are reducing the energy that can be transferred to the arrow, can someone confirm if that's correct? ie a Weak arrow, with more energy behind it, is going to act even weaker??
Sounds like you're on the right track. You could try winding some dental floss below your fixed nock point, just as a temporary tryout. If that works out you then move the nock point permanently.
You guys have the brace height reasoning down. I'm a simple guy and can usually remember LOWER / LEFT , lower the brace, your arrow goes left. Right handed only... kind of like righty tighty... for my wife only.
The way I try to rationalise all of this is that the dynamic spine is set by the magnitude of the 'hit' on the moment of release. Full stop.
Once it has been bent the first time, all influence on spine is gone.
On the other hand, the length of time on the string is the length of time the arrow is accelerated and this stops at a point related to the BH so BH is used, as a proxy, to discuss it.
The 'best' I've come across is 'Archery, The Art of Repetition'. It's a good all-rounder aimed at the sighted archer but with explanations and it covers all aspects of archery: Set up, Tuning, Biomechanics, Fitness, Competition, Nutrition, Mental side, Arrow selection, Bowstrings, etc.
Maybe there's something in the Bowyers Bible series but I don't own them.
Bow fizziks for dummies chapter X hardly. Thank gosh for shooting past centre cut bows with a release and the stiffest arrows they make. Use this and a low brace height to make up for lack of input Hp. Right or wrong?
I think the complexity of it all is why I'd made up my own version- fitted my own observations and extrapolations could be used from it- even if the initial premise was wrong.
Lower, Left.
Dead simple. Hows that for the shortest chapter of Achery Fizzlesticks for Dun-ins?
I could not manage the 1916 to fly, they (the vanes) keep hitting my riser window in spite of changing brace-height, adjusting nocking-point hight, changing nock-position) and adjusting the plunger. So, I could remember that a Dutch bare-bow shooter has said that a Redline (Easton) should fly on a 40# bow. I had some in stock, and the spine is 600 (lucky me????), 29 inch long and point weight is 90 gr.. So I tried them, they fly pretty well and grouped nicely, but hitting.........left (but not so much as the 1916). The Red line is out of production so I had to buy a carbone one 30 inch long 600 and point weight 110 gr. and a carbone one 30 inch long 660 and point weight 110 gr. I thought at least the 660 should go to the right, please look at the foto. The three highest are the redlines, the lowers are the carbon ones 600 and 660, the crawl was for all arrows even 1 1/4", distance 15 m. As You can see they are all in the same vertical line So I think I have to live with it. Thank you all for your advice,
Seb, were you aiming at the yellow centre or the disk?
What do bareshafts do?
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Trad Talk Forums
788.8K posts
23.8K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to Traditional Archery owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!