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Fat carbon arrow - 600 spine suggestions?

5K views 12 replies 11 participants last post by  Andy Pawlowicz 
#1 ·
I'm toying with setting up a bow for some indoor 20 yard competition, and was wondering if there were any 0.35" arrows available in 600 or 700 spine.

Does anyone know of a carbon shaft like this?

I'm using my standard GT Velocity 0.28" in the meantime!
 
#4 ·
Pardon my stupidity, but inquiring minds want to know. I'm not a target shooter and my mind's not the steel trap that it used to be, but I do recall that back in my wheelie days "fat" was good on 3D scoring rings. I shot around 70# w/release and the fattest I was able to go was 2213. A 2315 sounds like a lodgepole and it is. I just looked it up and is it's deflection is .342, which unless I've gone senile(a possibility) is roughly equivalent to a .340 carbon. I've hung around the fringes of the target guys on other sites enough to know they favor light poundage( usually <40#). Compound risers were cut way past center even then and I shot them with plungers and every other rest known to man. I'm assuming that it must be the case that if target archers are shooting 2315's, it must be because they're knowingly trading off a shaft that's way too stiff and tuning it for "acceptable" flight just to reap the benefits of additional lie-cutters? I know if your form is "shooting machine" consistent any spine will "group"...mine's not there yet, lol!
 
#6 ·
I shoot competitively recurve, longbow and just about every class compound and shoot with a lot of the top Pro freestyle shooters. Not one shoots less than 50# with most in the 57-60# range, even indoors. 2315 is a great indoor arrow, max diameter for USA Archery, World Archery/Fita. I prefer 2712's for BFAA at 32" with 300 gr tips. Most of the pro's are using 27's in either aluminum or carbon for indoors. However a few stick to their nano pros etc even indoors, especially if they start counting inside out X's.
 
#11 ·
My concern with a large diameter carbon in a 600 spine would be how durable they would be. I would assume they are thin walled shafts, and question how robust they would be. If you are shooting a single spot at 20 yards and smashing arrows agains each other, maybe an aluminum shaft would be best?

I know a XX-75 in size 2013 is only 5/16" and in diameter, but it is about a .610 spine. An X-7 in 2014 isn't much stiffer. I'm shooting Olympic Recurve right now, after a 10 year break. I'm shooting 38# on the fingers and a 31" 2013 with 87 grain point and 4" feathers. The combo is working well for me. I give up some X-cutting ability because it is 5/16", but the tune works well enough to keep my arrows in the gold and crashing into each other on the single spot. Because they are aluminum, I can give them a spin and check for straightness. I have a high quality arrow straightener from when I exclusively shot aluminum arrows in the 80's and 90's, so I can straighten them if necessary. So far, I haven't needed to.

You said you destroyed a bunch of arrows already. What have you been shooting?
 
#12 ·
I tried line cutters for a few years. I was always able to get a good state of tune one way or another. However they were invariably horribly unforgiving, as the base spine was what would be considered abnormally way too stiff.

My best Indoor scores have all been with made with shafts of a spine and diameter that I would have selected for any other competition format.

I do well, but I am not a Hooter Shooter.

Yes, Indoor calls for a level of precision beyond what you see when shooting 3D or Field. That precision is needed from both the shooter AND at the target face. With an arrow that is just plain too stiff, and given the slightest variation in shot execution, and sure enough, WHACK! the arrow strikes the riser and you're out there scoring 3 points IF YOU'RE LUCKY. Given a more "reasonable" arrow though, and you would have still pulled 4 points out of that same shot.
 
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