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Hoyt excel tiller adjustment

6K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  targets3d 
#1 ·
Just started playing around with the tiller to adjust weight. I wanted to bottom out the to get max weight but the tiller length is higher on the lower limb by 1/2 inch even with tiller bolts screwed all the way in and the bolts on other sides all the way out. Any ideas?
 
#2 ·
Just started playing around with the tiller to adjust weight. I wanted to bottom out the to get max weight but the tiller length is higher on the lower limb by 1/2 inch even with tiller bolts screwed all the way in and the bolts on other sides all the way out. Any ideas?
Sorry but I can't follow your meaning, though I think I may know what you are intending to say.

There are two tiller bolts, the ones with the wide top on the side of the riser away from the string and two locking screws that tighten on the underneath of them accessed from the string side of the riser.

The locking screws will have nothing to do with tiller adjustment other than ensuring it stays set.

Are you saying the tiller is 1/2" bigger on the lower limb with the tiller bolts fully screwed in (max preload)?
 
#4 ·
The locking screws will have nothing to do with tiller adjustment other than ensuring it stays set.

Are you saying the tiller is 1/2" bigger on the lower limb with the tiller bolts fully screwed in (max preload)?
Yes. That is exactly it. I bottomed out all the way, I can see the tiller bolts are all the way down stuck to the riser but still getting this variance. Will this impact my shooting in any way?
 
#5 ·
most limbs have a built in tiller.
swap the limbs top to bottom and see if the tiller reverses. if it does then its built into the limbs (this is probably the case).

if you want to start with even "0" tiller then just back one of the bolts out a half turn or more. the weight change will be minimal.

as a matter of fact, i would recommend leaving both bolts out one turn and then zeroing the tiller. this will give you tiller adjustment AND weight adjustment range for tuning.

youre not going to see too much of a weight change with a turn or 2 but you will see the tiller change and will have more room to tune bow (for timing) and arrows to you bow.

you are probaby going to need 1 full turn difference in the bolts to zero the tiller if its a half inch different.

good luck!
 
#6 · (Edited)
IF your bow is really quiet and the limbs arent vibrating excessively THEN the 1/2inch tiller might be exactly where you need it to be. I would still do some tinkering and see. I guess it kinda depends on your level of shooting ability and how picky you are about the bow feel. I like to start at 0 and increase from there to see what happens. thats just me. one guys tiller/tune might be junk for the next guy. its totally dependent on bow/grip/shooter combination. its really a case of what works best for you.

Is the 1/2" tiller going to make you a bad shot? no it wont:)

Brace height will change things a bit too.
 
#7 ·
I have a set of SF GSF 30# limbs. Their natural tiller is disappointing, I can't remember it at min preload but IIRC it gets worse at max preload with a tiller difference of 12mm (1/2").


Tiller will affect the way the bow reacts/tilts as you draw, you can compensate by tuning nock height so the arrow flight isn't affected.

With expensive limbs I'd be 'peeved' by such a tiller difference, with cheap limbs.................you get what you pay for.
 
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